My quest to build a High End Pooltable

My gift to the Billiards Community

9/16/2000- Wow has it been a busy weekend... Let me see where do I start. Sold my old Brunswick Commander pool table two weeks ago, so that gave me more room to work in the garage.

I finished carving the legs. What I mean by that is the legs were already carved by Adams wood supply. But I wanted a more hand carved look to them. This step is completely optional to you. And let me tell you it adds around 2 weeks to the time that it takes to build the table. You take a dremel and route around ball and claw on the feet and it looks as though they were hand carved. It also requires a ton of hand sanding when you get done because the ball needs to be rounded after the dremel work.

I purchased 2, 2 X 12 X 10 feet Douglas Fir (Construction Fir) and ripped one board down to 10 inches with a 15 degree bevel on one side. Then I took the inside measurement of the frame 1 1/2 inches from the base. I cut 2 sections with a 15 degree bevel on both ends. The reason I can't give dimensions of these boards is because it will be different from your table. It all depends on how wide your frame boards were planed down to... Don't throw away those spare pieces that you ripped off the side of the Fir. You will use them for glue blocks to hold the support into place. I cut 4 pieces of the spare Fir 10 inches long with a 15 degree bevel at the end then layed one of my support boards in place and glued in the beveled sides. I placed my two 10 inch glue blocks at either end of the support boards and screwed them into place using 2 inch #10 screws. I did the same at the other end. I then layed in the rest of the left over Fir at the end. Cut them with 90 degree ends so they would fit tightly between the other two glue blocks. I ran 2 inch screws in both directions (down and out).

Now came the easy part... Actually it wasn't that bad. As long as you kept everything level when you installed your supports, then this is pretty quick. Support one end of your frame 17 inches off the ground. (Doesn't really matter what you use to do this as long as it is secure. I actually used a recycle bin with a brick and a board on it.) After the end is propped up you can put the legs under the other end. Use enough glue on all of the points that contact between the leg and the support. Glue one leg at a time!!! Run 2 inch countersunk screws though the support Fir into the leg. 3 should be enough to hold it into place. Don't worry the Tightbond II will hold the joint better than any screw will. Then do the other leg. Go to the other end and remove your support and put in the legs. After you get them all bolted in. Fill the holes on the sides of the frame with wood putty. The reason we waited to do this is so the putty did not work its way out while we were torqueing the frame installing the supports. Now go to bed it has been a long day...

9/17/2000- You wake up to a dried frame with legs and guess what you are ready to make this hunk of wood start to look like a pool table. Sand down the wood putty. Go get yourself a finish no matter what type you want. I used Minwax Polyshades 225 Glossy Bombay Mahogany. As you can tell in the pictures it gave it a nice deep glossy "rich" look. I did two coats and used 000 fine steelwool between each coat only because that was all I needed. If you spend the time sanding you don't have to cover it up with finish... I also posted pictures of my $125.00 pockets. They are RC Design and look spectacular. They have a couple of minor dings in them but it was worth the 200 dollar discount versus new. I am also updating the expense section to reflect the latest purchases... Still on budget. I think it is starting to look beautiful but then again. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

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Contact Me: John Kirchel
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