My quest to build a High End Pooltable

My gift to the Billiards Community

8/07/2000 - Sorry I have not posted anything in a while. I have been doing a ton of sanding... And more sanding... and even more sanding... But it is to the point of where I like it because I just framed up the slate base this past weekend. Let me tell you it was dang hot in my garage :). Believe it or not you can do this by yourself. There are 300 different ways to do it, but I suggest you to do it the way that I did and you will minimize the problems that you can have...

First I got some 1 1/2 inch angle iron and cut 8 - 4 inch lengths out of them. I clamped two angle irons together and on one leg of the angle iron I drilled two holes that are at a 45 degree angle from the other leg. Then I unclamped it and reclamped the other two legs together and ran a 5/16 inch drill bit through the other side one inch up from the nearest hole. I made 4 sets of these brackets to accommodate the four miter corners that I will mount the brackets to. I then measured back from the miter angle, on the top of the board, 1/4 of an inch and made a line. I then centered the 5/8 inch hole on the angle and bolted it to the top of the board on each end of the long side using standard 1 inch wood screws.

After all the brackets were installed I flipped each board over and ran a 5/8 inch all thread through each matching hole on each bracket. Threw on a couple of washers and nuts and tightened it down finger tight. I then started shimming up each side of the frame so that it was level all the way around. With these brackets in place I never had to worry about my frame falling over or loosing alignment. Also it made it easy to swing the boards and put Tightbond II in each of the joints before bolting them together... I did each joint with one screw to make sure that they lined up and I was able to still move the frame around to get it square. Note: To find out if you are square or not the easiest way is to measure from the furthest left hand corner to the nearest right hand corner. Then measure from the furthest right hand corner to the nearest left hand corner. If those 2 measurements match then you are square. If not just lift the nearest end and swing it in the same direction as the longest further corner. Once I was square and level I ran the rest of the bolts in both directions (3 both ways).

I flipped the whole base over and removed the brackets. I then cut 1 1/4 inch blocks 7 inches long with one side having a 7 degree bevel. I then used my miter saw to cut the ends so they would be level with the top bevel when I used them for corner glue blocks. I swung the base 15 degrees and the blade 15 degrees. I then had the inside corner (the one opposite the corner being glued) facing me and on top when I cut them. I glued them and ran 2 - 2 inch wood screws in both directions. Now you know the reason for the 7 degree bevel on one side. It allows the block to fit squarely in the corner. Now at this point is a great time to do some finishing sanding on the sides to catch any glue that may of seeped out of the corners. Believe me it is a lot easier to sand out semi dried glue than to sand out glue that has set for 24 hours. As you can see from the pictures, it is starting to look like a real table at this point. The miter cuts were right on. I do have some minor gaping at the joints, but after measuring them, nothing over 1/32 of an inch. Now all I have to do is continue routing the ball and claw on the legs so they look like a fine piece of furniture. I should have an update in the next couple of weeks, now that most of the sanding on the frame is done. If the explanation of the brackets was too confusing email me and I will post a drawing of what I meant. Thanx for staying tuned.

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Contact Me: John Kirchel
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