My quest to build a High End Pooltable

My gift to the Billiards Community

06/18/2000 I cut my wood this weekend. I put the 15 degree bevel across the top of each board.
15 Degree Bevel: I accomplished this with a standard table saw. I tried a couple of different methods but the best way to do it was to clamp the 6/4 X 3 poplar, that I am going to use for the slate support on the top of the frame, to the table of the saw for a guide. I left the rip fence on the saw but this was only to make sure the wood did not 'walk' as I pushed it through. To get the exact measurement for the 10 7/8" for the width of the sides I set the saw blade at the 15 degree angle and ran it up so that it would protrude through the top of the board about a half an inch. I then layed the mahogany on the table at the end of the blade. I then moved the saw blade around until the closest tip of the inside tooth was in line with the top of the board. I then measured from the side of the board to the point on that tooth. When I had that measurement I clamped down that side of the poplar to the table. I measured from the outside of the poplar at the clamp and moved the other end of the poplar to place the other clamp at that measurement. Thus giving me a long rip fence to guide the *expensive* hardwood. One important note here... You want to have the blade angle so that the long side is up. The reason for this is if you end up lifting or dropping (not literally *g*) the end of your wood when pushing it through the saw the blade will cut into the waste side of the cut thus not destroying your wood. So remember long side up!!!

14.5 Degree Crosscut with a 43 degree Bevel: This ended up being easier than I thought. I called around to several cabinet makers in the area asking to have this done. Something I found out was if they are busy then you will pay as much as 75 bucks to have these precise cuts made. So after 10 or so cabinet makers one of them said, "Look either you pay me 60 bucks to have it done or go rent the saw and do it yourself." So I did. I paid 36 bucks for the day for a Makita Compound Miter Sliding arm saw. It had a very nice set up on it. A clamp to hold your work and a sturdy back fence to make sure the stock was aligned with the blade. I used a couple of shareware programs to find out what the two angles were going to be. They both gave me around the same numbers for the angles. For a slope of 15 degrees on the sides of the frame you need a 14.5 degree cross cut with a 43 degree bevel. Check that your angles are correct before each cut. Because sometimes when you place your work on the saw you may inadvertantly hit the blade or the table and knock it out of adjustment. Once you get the one end set up make 4 cuts on the 3 boards you have. It is much quicker to do it this way instead of having to readjust for each end. One side note here... When you place your work into the saw it is very important to support the other end, and have it clamped to the table. The reason for this is if you do not have it supported and clamped and your board sags you are actually cutting at a sharper angle (not good when making knats ass exact miter cuts). After cutting the one end of each board and the middle of one of them ( remember to leave yourself at least 53 inches for each half, as these are going to be your 49 inch sides) readjust your saw the other direction so that you are cutting 43 degrees the other way with the 14.5 degree crosscut. The best way I found to get the exact measurements on the length of the board was to put the 15 degree bevel against the fence, make my cut, then measure back from the corner 8 inches and put a mark on the fence. Then take the total measurement and of the board, subtract 8 inches and place a mark on the board. Now all I have to do is line up the 8 inch mark on the board and the mark on the fence. On slide arm saws you start the moter and start on the end closest to you and push the blade towards the back. I learned this quickly when I started the saw and started near the rip fence. The blade shot through my wood, got jammed up, and kicked off the circut breaker to the garage. Scared me as that blade ran towards me *g*.

So where are we at?: So now at this point we have two pieces of 6/4 X 10 7/8 inch X 49 inch, and two pieces of 6/4 X 10 7/8 inch X 99 inch mahogany. By the way the legs and the subrails came in last week. I should be framing up the frame next week. I have to go buy some plywood and some 2 X 4's for some jigs because with a slope it is really tough to get clamps to work right... Oh and I have added a new section on the page called Drawings. As I build this I will be posting drawings of the pieces to make it easier on someone else who tries this project after me.
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