My quest to build a High End Pooltable

My gift to the Billiards Community

Cutting the angles for the pockets. Glueing the cushions on the rails

12/26/2000- Merry Xmas everyone. I did not get any pool related things so knowing this I went out and bought a jump break cue from J & J and some used Brunswick Centenial balls. Sorry I am not going to add the balls to the price breakdown but I will add the 17 rail sites that I purchased.

Today we cut the corners for our table. You can do this with a miter saw. You just have to use your brain to break the boundries of the 45 degrees that most miter saws allow. The corner pockets are allowed to have a 54 to 57 degree angle and the sides a 14 to 17 degree angle. The angle starts where your mahogany meets up with the feather strip. This is where you decide whether or not you are a beginner player, average player, or very good player. It depends on your ego what degree you will choose. The 57 degree and 17 degree angles are for the beginner and the 54 and 14 degree angles are for the very good players. I cut mine at 55 degrees and 15 degrees. Not saying that I am a very good player, but I want to be. And because I am building this table as a practice table, If I can sink a ball on this table I can sink a ball on any table. The first corner cut is pretty easy. Set your miter blade at a 10 degree vertical angle and swing the miter table to 35 degrees. Put your rail on the table end first. The way this works out if you take the 55 degrees and subtract the 45 that the table allows you come up with 10. Now when you swing your rail 90 degrees you just opened the angle to work in the opposite direction. So you subtract the 10 from the 45 which gives you 35 degress or 55 if the rail was against the fence. Make sure the vertical angle on the blade is cutting in from top to bottom. The reason for the angle is when a ball comes into the pocket, if there is any top spin on it, the angle forces the ball on the table. Otherwise there is a potential that the ball could hit the pocket facing and launch it off the table. You will cut 4 of the left hand corners this way. Now swing your miter table to 15 degrees and place the rail against the fence to cut the angle for the side pockets. First one cushion side against the fence, rail face up. Then for the other angle, cushion side out rail face down. Now comes the tricky part. You take your other rails that you have not cut the Right Hand angle on and lay them down face up. Lay another rail face down on top of that rail and mark the angle of the corner on the lower rail. Now swing the miter table to around 37 degrees and place the rail on the miter saw so the blade is in line with the marked line on the rail. It should look like the picture. It looks wierd but it works. Cut all 4 of your angles. Now put the rails back on the table with the rail cap allthreads in place and the nuts on finger tight. The reason for this is so the rail will not move when you put on the cushions.

Now that it is starting to look something like a pool table we are going to finish up the last thing we need to do today and that is gluing the cushions to the rail. I used Championship Cushions purchased from Ozone Park Billiards Put ample amounts of contact cement on the cushions and the rail. Let it set up around 20 minutes. Lay the cushion in front of the rail around 4 inches away. Start on one end and place the cushion on the rail. It is best to do this with 2 hands. One hand holds the cushion away from the rail the other pushes the cushion onto the rail. Be careful and make sure that the top of the cushion is flush with the top of the rail. Contact cement is dangerous stuff. If you screw up it usually will not let you go back and fix it. Once again take your time and don't rush things. Once you get all the cushions in place walk around the table and pull vertically on the cushions walking you hands down the rails. This will make sure that all of the cushion is contacting the rail. You do not want voids in between them as you will end up with a dead spot in the rail. Now put a bead of tight bond on the top of the rail where the cushion meets the rail. This is an added thing that I did because I did not want someone sitting on the table and pulling the cushion away from the rail and if the contact cement ever decides to break down (like it always does) after a few years, it will have something else to hold it into place.

Ok go to bed and we will finish up the rails tomorrow.

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