My quest to build a High End Pooltable

My gift to the Billiards Community

Horizontal Supports

10/15/2000- Well after going through a few things at work and finally finding time to work on the table I am proud to say that the horizontal supports are in place. But before I get into this a few people have asked how dark I stained the table. It is not that dark it just looked that way in the picture. As I stated before it is 225 Glossy Bombay Mahogany which really brings out the red in the Honduras Mahogany and the gloss is beautiful.

Ok on to the horizontal cross members. This is where the second piece of Fir came into play. Because I already explained to you the easiest way to rip wood I will not go into how I set up my table saw to do it. All you need to know is I ripped the 2 x 12 inch fir (it really is not 12 inches but anyway) 7 and 4 1/2 inches. I will use the 4 1/2 inch board for the vertical support later this week. Ok now comes the tricky part. Remember when you questioned whether or not you were ever going to use algebra in real life. Guess what... Don't worry I will walk you through it real simple. First you need to go measure your center piece of slate. Divide that number by 2. Now go measure the long side of your frame. You must do both sides, because I don't care how good you are I can almost guarantee that one side is not the same size as the other. I guess it is inherent to miter corners. Anyway once you have the 1/2 dimension of your side you want to measure and mark a line on the top of your frame equal to the 1/2 dimension of your slate. The reason for this is you want the center of the slate to line up with the center of the frame. Do the same on the other side. You should have 3 lines on each side of your frame... the start of the slate the center of the long side and the end of the slate. Now place a square at the line that marks the start of the slate. (This is where the algebra comes into play) Keep it square with the top of the frame and slide it out until the inside of the square touches the bottom of your frame. Now write down the measurement at the top of the square and the length of the square. I. E.: Mine was 2 3/4 by 10 1/8 inches. Now convert the fractions into decimals so you come up with 2.750 and 10.125. Take the 2.750 and divide it by 10.125 (You should come up with a huge number) mine was .2716049.... Now you ask what is the importance of this number? Well it is what is known as a slope value. We can now draw a line on the end of our 7 inch support board that will have the exact angle as the inside angle of the frame. Take our slope value and multiply it by 7, which I come up with 1.90123456.... Now convert the .90123456 to a fraction by multiplying it by 16 I come out with a 14.41 which is pretty close to 29/32 so draw a line that is square to the end of your 7 inch board then measure back and mark a line 1 29/32 on one side. Connect the two measurements and cut. Do the same thing for the other side after you have measured the distance between the inside tops of each side of your frame. You will be amazed at how snug the board will fit, you will ask yourself whether or not you need the glue blocks. Cut up some glue blocks and drill them in place while holding the supports lined up with the lines that you marked in the sides for the edge of the slate. And keep them level and square with the top of the frame. Glue the backs first, then bolt them in. When you get everything bolted, slide the supports out, put ample glue in the grove and slide the supports back in. This is very important that you glue the supports to the sides of the frame. Many table manufactures do not do this and that is why you must get your table re-leveled every year and a half to 2 years. Because the sides sag under the weight of the slate. Better to be safe than sorry. Don't worry we will be covering the sag of the short sides in my next post.

Just to answer a few quick questions I keep getting about the table. First off I have no plans that I am working off of. It is a actually something I have in my head that I push and tweak in the dark recesses of my brain. I have seen and read a couple of articles on building a table that sort of pushed me in the right direction. Yes I am using some of the articles techniques in building the table, although I have changed a lot of it because of personal preference. There really is 3 ways to build a table. One that will last a week, one that will last a couple of years or one that you hope your son will pass on to his son as a wedding gift. I am shooting for the last one. So if you want a copy of the plans, be patient I will be posting them. I have started with the first set only because I have had time to do it. As soon as I get time to do the others I will. And YES they will be free!!!!! The other question I get is why am I giving this information away? Anyone that knows me knows that I like money like the next guy. But my passion for the game is my payment for sharing this information. If I get recognized as "The guy that built the table on the internet" when I walk into a pool hall (which it has already happened). It puts a smile on my face and makes me feel great when someone says... "Wow, you really are doing a nice job." And hey I end up with a solid mahogany table for a heck of a lot less than what I would buy it new, with the satisfaction that I built it myself.

Stay tuned....

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